The cuisines of China, India, Indonesia, Thailand and Europe supplement the Malaysian specialities, so there's something for every taste. Main courses rely frequently on fish and seafood, which are extremely fresh, and superb. The catch you see being landed by the fishermen in the morning finds its way onto the dinner table in the evening. Chicken, beef and vegetables will also appear-but not pork, this being a Muslim country. Rice (nasi) is grown in abundance along the coastal plains, and is a staple

ingredient of many dishes. The spices much sought after by the early European traders flavour many dishes, and local coconuts produce another basic ingredient-coconut milk, which renders the curries a little milder. Rice dishes include nasi kirabu, mixed with oriental herbs; nasi lemak, prepared with coconut milk, cucumbers and fried eggs; and the classic nasi goreng, spicy fried rice mixed with pieces of meat, chicken or fish, belying its humble origins as a way of using up leftovers. Mee goreng is similar but made with noodles instead of rice.

The national dish of Malaysia is satay -chunks of beef, chicken or prawns skewered and barbecued over charcoal, then served with a pungent sauce of peanuts, garlic and chilli. Full of flavour but not too hot, korma curry makes a good introduction to Malay food, especially when accompanied by gado-gado, a dish of vegetables with peanut sauce.

To refresh your palate, take your pick of a vast range of luscious tropical fruits. There are alone 40 different kinds of banana. The hairy red rambutan opens to reveal a delicate white-fleshed fruit similar to a litchi, while the mangosteen has a purple skin that may stain your fingers as you crack it open (press with both hands). People who can pluck up the courage to taste the smelly durian never regret it; the flesh is rich, creamy and addictive.

The most refreshing and delicious drinks are fruit juice, coconut water from fresh green coconuts, and soya bean milk, sold in plastic bags. The local beer is good, and home-grown tea excellent.